By Anne Massey
With the erection of the Chrysler development in manhattan within the overdue 20s, representing town and sleek American city existence, the long island skyline grew to become an everlasting icon in pop culture on either side of the Atlantic. not just Hollywood movie, yet jazz and American businesses all mixed to deliver the recent Moderne kind to endure on Britain. The structure of retailers, cinemas, and factories all replicate this effect, as did a variety of varieties of transportation and the interiors of houses. whilst past due because the client growth within the 80s, revivals celebrating the Moderne sort have been renowned in Britain in addition to in another country. This impact was once evidently no longer with out its critics. The very acclaim for American layout challenged the aesthetics and elitism of British excessive arts and is still controversial.
Anyone attracted to layout, fabric tradition, movie or structure will locate this booklet to be a lucid and soaking up exploration of a favored aesthetic.
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Additional info for Hollywood Beyond the Screen: Design and Material Culture
Glamour is normally regarded as suspect in academic discourse. This was aptly summed up by the music journalist Julie Birchill in the 1980s: The Jazz Age 39 ‘. . the left has been populated by drabbies who seem to equate glamour with conservatism; as though having a suntan and a good suit makes you an honorary member of the South African police force’ (as quoted in Elms 1986: 12). As in the general academic debate around consumption, there are those who adamantly oppose the notion of glamour as an instrument of capitalism and those who celebrate it as oppositional subversion.
They mingled a stripped-down classicism with ziggurat outlines and Egyptian details, incorporating decorative elements derived from Tutankhamun’s tomb, discovered in 1922. This was true of the main façade of the Pavilion of a Rich Collector, with the imposing pillars of its main entrance the Porte d’Honneur, and also of the pavilion of the decorating firm, La Maîtrise, part of the major Parisian department store, Les Galeries Lafayette. Use of bold colours and shapes, ziggurat profile, sunburst motif, frozen fountain and exotic materials were all design elements that the party took back to the States.
Starring controversial male matinée idol Rudolph Valentino, it drew upon the potent The Jazz Age 23 imagery of Orientalism (Studlar 1996; Bernstein and Studlar 1997). In fashion terms the most influential creator of the oriental look was Parisbased Paul Poiret. His loose-fitting gowns in rich fabrics, trimmed with fur, gems and feathers, were primarily designed for the stage just before the First World War, but acquired international renown during the early 1920s. He undertook a lecture tour of America in 1923 that provoked outrage and intrigue.
Hollywood Beyond the Screen: Design and Material Culture by Anne Massey